[JAPAN] A Foodie's Guide to Tokyo

Tokyo is the capital of Japan, it is the world's most populous metropolis and it offers seemingly unlimited choices of dining to its visitors. It has almost everything that is expected of a city and it has more Michelin-starred eateries than any other city as well. I am in love with this city and these are some of the best eats during my trips. 

IZUEI HONTEN
2 Chome-12-22 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo-to 110-0005, Japan
Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 10.00 pm (Daily)

This 260 years old restaurant is just a stone's throw away from the Ueno train station. They are still using the traditional methods of cooking eels that have been passed down for generations. Please ask for an English menu if you have difficulties in ordering.

Himeijyu, literally means 'Princess Box' which consists of a two-tiered bowl, the top layer is filled with various veggies and seafood as an appetizer and the bottom layer is unagi with rice, served with a Kimosui (eel liver soup) and a dish of Japanese pickles. The set is priced at ¥3,780.

Tonojyu, which means 'Prince Box', consists of 2 layers of unagi and rice, a layer on top of another layer and it also served along with kimosui and Japanese pickles at ¥6480.

NIHONBASHI TAMAI ANAGO
2-9-9 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku
Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 2.00 pm / 5.00 pm to 9.30 pm (Mon to Fri) / 11.30 am to 3.30 pm / 4.30 pm to 8.30 pm (Sat, Sun & PH)

This Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated eatery is specialized in Anago Chirashi, it is quite a rare find in Tokyo as most of them are specialized in serving unagi. Their main outlet in Nihonbashi, located in an old Showa building that has a long history dated back to Showa 28 (1953). Hakomeshi is a must try if you are here, Hakomeshi is a term coined by Tamai to describe the style of eating their anago in the traditional Japanese lacquered boxes, which in the 1600s, were tiered into 3 to 5 layers as a convenient way to store and transport food. There are 3 different sizes, the small one at ¥1,750, the medium one at ¥2,950 and the large one at ¥3, 950. 

Do not eat it all but left a quarter for the chazuke, a Japanese dish made by pouring the dashi (broth) over cooked rice. This is done by placing the cooked rice and anago into the small bowl then pour the hot anago dashi over it. You may also sprinkle the remaining negi and yuzu to flavor it. 

To experience Tamai's Hakomeshi, first is to choose the type of anago, there is a choice of simmered in sweet sauce or cooked on the grill, you could also choose to have both, it is serving on rice. To start, have a few bites in the original flavor to experience the fresh and seasonal anago. Then, for a change in flavor, add a touch of wasabi (Japanese horseradish) for a spicy mustard taste. Next, try to sprinkle with some Japanese spices, like 'negi' (leeks) for a mild onion flavor and 'yuzu' for a fresh citric flavor.

ISEHIRO KYOVASHI
1-5-4 Kyobashi Chuo-ku Tokyo 10-0031
Operating Hours: 11.30 am to 2.00 pm / 4.30 pm to 9.00 pm (Closed on Sundays & Public Holidays)

Opened in 1921, they are specializing in yakitori using selected quality ingredients. It has maintains the same high standard all these years. The five-skewer yakitori-don at ¥1,850 during lunch is strongly recommended. It consists of a variety of different chicken parts like the liver and lean Sasami breast, featuring different flavors and textures. 

NARIKURA
1-32-11 Tadadanobaba, Shinjuku, Tokyo, Japan
Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 2.00 pm / 5.30 pm to 8.30 pm (Closed on Thur & Sun)

It is recommended on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list. There is always a queue and it is usually long, it extends from the basement stairway to street level mostly. There are 2 main types of pork for selection, there is Rosu (loin) and the other is Hire (fillet). Loin has more fats in the meat, it is usually more tender than the fillet. 

There are different types of tonkatsu, Kiramugi at 190 grams for ¥3200 is amongst the popular choices, using the Aguu breed pork from Okinawa. Another recommended item would be Snow-aged Pork at the same weight and price from Niigata. The orders are served with shredded cabbage, potato salad, Japanese pickles and a bowl of miso soup. Their tonkatsu, arguably, amongst the best in Tokyo. 

GYUKATSU MOTOMUTA
3-32-2 Shinjuku, B1F, Shinjuku 160-0022, Tokyo, Japan
Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 9.00 pm

Gyukatsu, a deep-fried breaded beef cutlet is as popular as the other Japanese cuisines that you got to try. It is like Tonkatsu but not quite so. This is arguably the most popular restaurant in Tokyo for serving this dish. There are a few outlets in Tokyo and the queues are usually quite long no matter which outlet, it is so even during the odd hours. The menu is quite simple, the only item there is gyukatsu at different sizes, starting from 100 grams (¥1,200) 130 grams (¥1,400) and 260 grams (¥2,100).  There is an option to have it with grated yam for an additional ¥100 and it is supposed to drizzle over the rice. 

The sliced beef is served rare but you could cook it to your preferred doneness using the small grill. It is served along with a pile of cabbage, barley rice, potato salad, pickles, and miso soup. There are also condiments available on every table to go with the gyukatsu. 

SHIN UDON
2 151 0053, 2 Chome-20-16 Yoyogi Shibuya Tokyo 151-0053 Japan
Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 10.00 pm (Mon to Thu & Sun) / 11.00 am to 11.00 pm (Fri & Sat)

This is a restaurant specializing in Udon, just a stone's throw away from Shinjuku station, close to the popular Fu-unji ramen. They have been consistently ranked amongst the best udon restaurants since their opening in April 2011.

Their menu has simple descriptions in English. The price range is in between ¥1,000 to ¥1,300 per dish. There is a selection of Zaru Udon, Kake Udon and Bukkake Udon. Zaru Udon is boiled and served cold with the dipping sauce served separately, its texture is springier with a richer flavor. Kake Udon is boiled and served in a lighter taste hot broth, its texture is smoother as compared to the Kake Udon. The Bukkake Udon is boiled then served with a bit of broth, its texture is in between Zaru Udon and Kake Udon. The recommended dish to try is Kake Udon with tempura set at ¥1,300. 

FUUNJI
2-14-3, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, 151-0053 Tokyo, Japan
Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 3.00 pm / 5.00 pm to 9.00 pm (Mon to Sat)

This is a small shop hidden on a quiet street near Shinjuku Station and not too far from Shin Udon. They serve one of the best bowls of tsukemen in Tokyo. And, there is always a queue. You will order from the vending machine and wait further. There are 2 types of ramen and 2 types of tsukemen, the regular and the special option, and the special options included an egg and pork belly. Tsukemen is recommended as this is what they are known for. Deluxe Tsukemen, which also known as Special Dipping Noodle is priced at ¥1000, it is the same price for the portion size of noodles from small to the large serving.

The flavors and textures nicely complemented each other for a perfect balance. There was nori, pork belly, bamboo shoots and a soft-boiled egg in the broth with dashi powder. 

Ajisai Japanese Ramen at Yishun Park Hawker Centre

Chef Saito Hiroli, 74, is in charge of this Japanese Ramen stall in this slightly more than a month old Hawker Centre. He was born Tokyo in Japan and he entered the kitchen at 26 years old working at a Japanese gastropub in Osaka for a decade. After this, he went to Los Angeles in the United States of America and worked in a Japanese restaurant before leaving for Hong Kong then went to Sydney as well as other Asian cities before coming to Singapore in 1993. He worked as an executive chef in the hotel and also ran his gastropub together with a Japanese stall in a food court. He met Vincent Ng, 52, that ran a Chinese mixed-rice stall in the food court and both of them became friends. And, Vincent managed to convince Chef Saito to come out of his retirement and set up this stall together. 

This stall is supposed to serve Japanese food at affordable prices and with no authenticity sacrificed. Chef Saito was there when I ordered the Ajisai Miso Ramen at $5.50, the most expensive item on their menu. There are also Pork Chashu Ramen ($3.50), Chicken Ramen ($3.50), Tempura Ramen ($3.50), Jia Jia Ramen (Dry) ($3.50), Miso Ramen ($4.50), Ajisai Ramen ($5.00) and Plain Ramen ($2.50) on the menu. Some items like different types of Donburi and Japanese Curry as well as Garlic Fried Rice are marked as "Sold Out" on their menu. 

I waited for about quite a while for the order to be taken and waited for another 8 minutes or so before receiving the order as there was an order of 3 bowls of ramen before me. The Ajisai Miso Ramen came with half of the ajitama with a small piece of charsu that had more fat than meat, together with some sweet corns, wakame seaweed, fried chicken, and pork. The texture of ramen was pretty firm though with a kind of rubbery resistance which I did not quite like and the miso taste was just too strong. 

I decided to give it another try as I was not too convinced that this should be their usual standard since they have an experienced Japanese chef to oversee the cooking process. I ordered the Pork Chashu Ramen ($3.50) this time. While waiting for the order to be ready, I took notice of those blocks of braised pork belly on a plate that was placed in the glass display shelf, instead of being rolled and tied up the pork belly, it was just blocks of pork belly with a few pieces of string in between to hold its shape. And, that explained why I initially thought it was just half a piece of charshu as it was much smaller in size. 

I was expecting it to be served in tonkotsu broth but it was shoyu instead, it is clearly indicated beside the Pork Chashu Ramen, which has listed as A1 on their menu but I did not notice it when ordering. It fared slightly better than the Ajisai Miso Ramen that I had yesterday. It is served in clear dark broth, flavored with soy sauce with half of the ajitama, a piece of small charsu and kombu. 

The ramen was cooked to the al-dente texture and the ajitama egg was done just right, the chashu has a better lean-to-fat ratio this time. It was not too bad for just $3.50 and I should not be comparing nor complaining at all.

This is not the best of the hawker-style Japanese Ramen that I had tasted,  though this is likely to be the cheapest in Singapore for shoyu ramen.

AJISAI JAPANESE RAMEN

51 Yishun Avenue 11 #01-42 Yishun Park Hawker Centre SINGAPORE 768867

Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 9.00 pm (Tuesday to Friday) / 

9.00 am to 9.00 pm (Saturday, Sunday & Public Holiday)

Ramen Taisho : the Hawker-style Japanese ramen

Tan Hock Soon and Kalene, his wife, started this ramen stall on 15 February 2016 in the food court at Clementi Mall before moving to Maxwell Food Centre on 15 July 2017. Hock Soon spent about 3 years traveling between Singapore and Japan, attending classes and undergoing different types of training to know about cooking and making the ramen. He even imported a noodle maker from Japan and making his own noodles when his stall was in Clementi. I am not sure whether is he still doing right now as his current stall space is smaller. He also attended the Street Food 360 course conducted by Makansutra.

There are the choices of Standard Ramen ($6.80), Ajitama Ramen ($7.80), Chashu Ramen ($8.80), Sambal Ikan Bilis Ramen ($7.80), Black Garlic Ramen ($7.80) and Mazemen Dry Ramen ($7.80). The Shoyu Tonkotsu Ramen ($7.80) is their newest addition and the Deluxe version that came with 3 pieces of chasu is reasonably priced at $9.80, which is cheaper than those from the Japanese restaurants. The ingredients like chashu and tamago eggs are made in-house.

I decided to go with the Black Garlic Ramen, it came with a good portion of noodles with a piece of chashu, bamboo shoots and a tamago egg, garnished with chopped scallions and topped with black garlic oil to serve. 

The chashu was a bit too tough and slightly too thin as well but they got the tamago egg right, the white was quite firm with a soft runny egg yolk. The broth is made from pork bones and chicken and boiled over a relatively long period of time for a rich and deep full-bodied flavor. The noodles were cooked just right to a smooth and elastic texture.

This has to be the better Hawker-style Japanese ramen as compared to the others that I had eaten so far. This is nearly as good as those that offer by the proper restaurant if they are able to keep up the standard. 

RAMEN TAISHO

1 Kadayanallur Street #01-32 Maxwell Food Centre SINGAPORE
Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 9.30 pm (Closed on Saturdays and Sundays)

Ah Tan Wings at Yishun Park Hawker Centre : Har Cheong Gai - must-try

Tan Yu Yan, 28, started this stall with her brother, Tan Wee Yang, 25 and they are one of the 25 recipients of Tiger Beer Street Food Support Fund. Their menu consists of mainly Har Cheong Gai (Prawn Paste Chicken) based on a recipe that they have spent more than a year in perfecting it. And, that was after experimented up to 800 variations of the recipe which demonstrated great dedication. Though the process was rather challenging but fruitful, it was a journey that filled with many ups and downs. They used to be at different pop-up events while hunting for a permanent location. They kept on improving their recipe and doing online marketing at the same time before finally settling at Yishun Park Hawker Centre. The entire process was quite a struggle.  Their vision is simple, they want to introduce a shatteringly-crispy Har Cheong Gai that you will never forget. 

We were there at about 6 pm when they just opened but there was already a short queue in front of the stall with some customers waiting for their takeaway orders. Other than Har Cheong Gai, there is also Okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) on their menu. I was told to wait for a little while for my order to be taken as the gentleman at the counter was trying to clear some of the earlier orders. We decided to go with Ah Tan Atas Cutlet ($7.00) and Okonomiyaki ($8.50), an extra $1.00 is added as tray deposit. After payment, I was told to come back in about 10 to 15 minutes to collect it. It was ready and waited at the counter when I went back at about 15 minutes. I was asked even offered an extra saucer of chili.

The Ah Tan Atas Cutlet consists of 2 pieces of prawn paste chicken cutlets serving with shaker fries and salad. They marinated those chicken pieces in the har cheong gai paste for 2 days and coated in their specially made batter before deep-frying. How they managed in resulting such a crispy crust has remained to be their secret. The unparalleled crispy skin and the deep satisfaction when you crunch down on those chicken cutlets were just so unforgettable. 

The Okonomiyaki is not commonly found in Singapore and I was glad that they served it too. It is grilled Japanese pancakes embedded with prawn and bacon then topped with bonito flakes and oko sauce. There is an option to add Tobiko (flying roe) and oozing torched cheese for $1.50. It was nice though not particularly memorable. I would rather skip this and go for the Har Cheong Gai.

They are currently short-handed and their operating hours will be from 6.00 pm till sold out for the time being. I asked about their operating hours on their Facebook which they replied and I did not quite expect to receive their private message to inform me of the changes. I was amazed by such personal touch.

They are doing their part to be a part of the street food culture in Singapore and hawker centre is where it started and where they will belong.

AH TAN WINGS

51 Yishun Avenue 11 #01-40 Yishun Park Hawker Centre SINGAPORE 768867

Operating Hours: 6.00 pm to 9.00 pm (Closed on Wednesdays)

Gyu Nami : Wagyu Roast Beef Donburi @ Amoy Street Food Centre

I was at Amoy Street Food Centre for a late lunch when I chanced upon this stall. There was a flower basket displayed right beside their stall, which is a good indication that this is a new stall that likely to be just opened for business. It was only later when I came across their Facebook page then I realized that they have just opened today. There is even a promotion going on, if you like their Facebook Page and follow them on Instagram, you will get free truffle shavings with each order which I did not know and so, I am not entitled. It will be nice if they make an effort to highlight it to their customers. The lady that took my order did not seem particularly friendly though. I was telling her that I did not expect to find such a stall in the food centre and she just smiled away. 

This stall is headed by a few young and passionate foodies that want to make good gourmet food available to the masses at affordable prices and they take pride in their ingredients as well as the cooking methods to serve the best to their customers, as mentioned on their Facebook page. 

Wagyu Roast Beef Donburi ($10) is their signature dish, it is slowly roasted to a perfect texture which still has its moisture retained for the desired tenderness. It is served along with an egg and their signature homemade yogurt sauce on rice. This is not a common dish to be found in a food centre and they are likely to be the first hawker stall serving such a dish.

I first tasted such a dish during my recent trip to Japan, though not really a fan but it is something different to have when visiting a food centre for lunch. I would think that $10 for such a dish is of decent value though it is more expensive as compared to the usual hawker fare. When I brought along to order my coffee from another stall, a fellow hawker was asking how much did I pay for it and when I told her it costs $10. She looked a bit shock and was telling the Uncle of the coffee stall that this beef rice bowl is $10. She did ask which stall that I ordered it from, I told her that it is a new stall near Taste Affair and the famous Han Kee Fish Soup. 

The real thing did not look as tall as the one in the picture on their Facebook and also with lesser beef slices though I totally understand that pictures are always just for illustration purposes. In this case, what you see is not exactly of what you will get. Overall, it was not bad. Those beef slices were quite tender with a runny egg yolk and when mixed it well, it provides a nice textural contrast. This would not be something that I will look forward to eating it again soon when I am here for lunch again.

GYU NAMI

7 Maxwell Road #02-126 Amoy Street Food Centre SINGAPORE 069111

Operating Hours: 11.00 am to 3.00 pm (Mon to Sat) (Closed on Sundays)

Shitamatchi Tendon Akimitsu : as good as those in Japan

Shitamatchi Tendon Akimitsu is an award-winning tempura and tendon restaurant from Asakusa in Tokyo, Japan and is owned by Chef Tanihara Akimitsu, the founder, using a recipe that has been around for 128 years. He is also the 5th generation owner and head chef of Dote No Iseya. It has expanded to Taiwan, Philippines, Malaysia and recently landed in Singapore, brought in by Japan Food Holdings Group. This group also owned brands like Menya Musashi, Osaka Osho, Ajisen Ramen and New Man Lee Bak Kut Teh. 

There was already a long queue when we were there at about 11.45 pm before they open at 12.00 pm. The Godaime Tendon that is at the discounted price of $24.90 was not available as only 10 sets available per day, the original price of the set is $49.80. 

As part of their opening promotion, you have the option to choose between the Matcha Ice-cream Puff or Oi Ocha if you like their Facebook page. 

The menu features different types of Tendon as well as Tempura Rice Sets and Tencha with side dishes and desserts. The must-order has to be the Akimitsu Signature Tendon ($14.90), it consists of prawn, white fish, golden mushroom, seaweed, assorted vegetables, and egg. You could choose the original sauce or the spicy sauce to go with the tendon. We also ordered the Mixed Tempura Rice Set ($15.90) that comprises of prawn, white fish, golden mushroom, seaweed and assorted vegetables. The menu also includes the Ebi Tendon ($17.90), Kakiage Tendon ($15.90), Vegetable Tendon ($12.90) and Kakiage Tencha ($17.90).

I enjoyed the single serving of Chawanmushi that is part of the set, it was silky smooth with a custard-like texture that was so soft that will melt in your mouth. The flavor was so subtle with a complexity of the dashi that came through with mushroom and shrimp embedded in it. 

Each order that inclusive of a main is also served with complimentary free-flow of pickles and a bowl of Miso Soup. 

The Akimitsu Signature Tendon came first. My dining companion and I agreed that the Tendon is almost as good as those that are served in Japan. Those Tempura pieces were lightly battered and deep fried to the desired crispiness and no greasiness to it. 

The Tempura Egg was done perfectly with a runny egg yolk. I remembered dining at one of the oldest tempura restaurants in Tokyo and they are supposed to be famous for their Tempura Egg but it ended up overcooked, it was a disappointing experience then. 

When we were almost done sharing the Akimitsu Signature Tendon, the Mixed Tempura Rice Set is still not served. We informed the service staff and the recovering service was prompt though, they served it in just a bit, and the lady that seemed to be in charge apologized for mixing up the order.

The Mixed Tempura Rice Set came with a bowl of rice with Miso Soup and their specially curated Tempura Sauce together with Sesame Salt and Matcha Salt. It was as good as the previous set, and we enjoyed it totally.

They are in the midst of opening another outlet at Vivocity soon. 

SHITAMATCHI TENDON AKIMITSU

68 Orchard Road #04-65/68 Plaza Singapura SINGAPORE 238839

Operating Hours: 12.00 pm to 3.00 pm / 5.00 pm to 10.00 pm (Daily)